Category Archives: Jean Patou

Jean Patou Moment Supreme ~ perfume review

Jean Patou Moment Suprême, vintage advert with background extended

Pardon the name-drop, but a little more than three years ago, through a lucky set of circumstances, I met Thomas Fontaine, the Jean Patou house perfumer.1 For me, it was an amazing afternoon of seeing what a real perfumer’s lab looks like, tasting jasmine and rose Pierre Hermé macarons, and talking fragrance with someone who lives and breathes a world I’ve mostly only read about.

One thing in particular sticks in my memory. Talking about Joy, Fontaine mentioned walking past women — mostly older women — in the street and inhaling their lush, complex sillage, “like a fur.” He described this style of fragrance as “old fashioned.” I bet Fontaine would say the same thing about Moment Suprême…

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5 Perfumes for: Happiness & Good Cheer

merry go round

That’s a presumptuous title, isn’t it? Why should I know what perfume will lift your mood? I don’t, so here’s a list of five perfumes that make me happy. My criteria is that they be friendly, uplifting, and maybe a little wacky. No brooding orientals or pretentious oeuvres here. Maybe you’ll find something to perk you up, too.

Jean Patou Colony: On the top of the “happy because it’s wacky” list is Colony, a pineapple syrup-infused chypre. To me, Colony is like an elegantly dressed woman who knows how to burp on command or who does a spot-on imitation of Foghorn Leghorn — all without mussing a hair of her chignon. How can that not bring you joy? For a bohemian take on the same concept…

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Bunch o’ limited edition collector bottles (& some other stuff) 2015, part 30

More limited edition collector fragrance bottles, with the usual disclaimers: in most of these cases, the juice is unchanged, just the bottle is “special” (or not, as the case may be), and some of these may not be available in the US. Today’s post includes collector editions from Guerlain, Jean Patou and Clinique, plus a new hair perfume in Viktor & Rolf’s Bonbon.

Guerlain + JonOne

From Guerlain, 1 liter bee bottles decorated by street artist JonOne. The blue bottle holds Shalimar in Extrait; the pink bottle holds La Petite Robe Noire in Extrait; the orange bottle holds Rose Barbare in Eau de Parfum. €9000 each, due to launch in January…

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Bunch o’ limited edition collector bottles (& some other stuff) 2015, part 29

More limited edition collector fragrance bottles, with the usual disclaimers: in most of these cases, the juice is unchanged, just the bottle is “special” (or not, as the case may be), and some of these may not be available in the US. Today’s post includes collector editions from Nina Ricci, Serge Lutens and Jean Patou, plus a new version of Baccarat Rouge 540 at Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Nina Pop 10th Birthday Collector's Edition

Nina Ricci’s Nina in the Nina Pop 10th Birthday Collector’s Edition, in a “psychedelic polka dot pattern” by French artist Coco. Due to launch in February, in 50 ml Eau de Toilette…

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5 perfumes: appreciating the Big Five

Like much art, some fragrances — especially the complex classics — take time to appreciate fully. At first, you might even find them off-putting. But as you spend time with each fragrance, you begin to appreciate its peculiar nature, its singular beauty. That describes how I’ve felt about the perfumes I’m calling the Big Five.

I’ll tell you a little about my relationship with each fragrance, then I’d love to hear how you’ve come to know each of them.

Chanel No. 5

Chanel No. 5

For the longest time, I was convinced I knew all about No. 5. No. 5 was fine, full of straw-tinted jasmine, awash with aldehydes, and charming, if fusty. But it wasn’t for me — or so I thought…

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Jean Patou Colony, Ma Collection & Heritage Collection ~ fragrance review

Jean Patou Colony Heritage Collection

There is now an uneasy feeling in France. The sky grows dark and rumours of war are abroad. There is a longing to be somewhere else. People dream of a warmer sun and wider horizons. As if in answer to these dreams and longings, Jean Patou produces a new scent, Colony — a scent evocative of sun-ripened fruit, the melting aroma of spices and the blue-black manes of Creole girls.

This is the description of Colony, launched in 1938, from the booklet that accompanied the 1984 Jean Patou Ma Collection set of minis of old Patou fragrances, including Colony. To me, it’s a good description of the Ma Collection Colony (assuming that Creole girls’ hair smells like pineapple, of course). I’ve never smelled the original Colony, developed by perfumer Henri Alméras.

The press release accompanying this year’s Jean Patou Héritage Collection reissue of Colony informs us that “The new fragrance will be a modern adaptation of the historic Colony scent.” Reading this sent shivers down my neck…

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Top 10 Summer Fragrances 2015

Japanese Garden, Portland

Instead of returning to my weary perfume cabinet for a rundown of summer favorites (I already hear longtime readers thinking, Is she going to bring up that blasted bottle of Jean Naté in her refrigerator again? Yawn), this year I got smart. I asked André Gooren from Portland’s fabled The Perfume House to share ten of his summer favorites.

André was up to the challenge. During a Saturday morning, between helping a bearded Australian opera singer (Caron Nocturnes, two bottles), a charming older woman (4711), a Romanian couple (Robert Piguet Jeunesse), and a booming-voiced regular (Pino Sylvestre and Comme des Garçons Avignon), he laid out ten sophisticated and sometimes quirky choices…

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Jean Patou Vacances, Colony & L’Heure Attendue ~ reissues

Patou Heritage Vacances and L’Heure Attendue

Jean Patou will launch a third trio of fragrance reissues in their Collection Héritage: Vacances, Colony and L’Heure Attendue. Previous releases include Chaldée, Eau de Patou, Patou pour Homme, Deux Amours, Que Sais-je? and Adieu Sagesse

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The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Jasmine

The Candy Perfume Boy’s ‘Guide to…‘ series is a Jasmine award winning fragrant exploration of the individual notes that make up the vast and multi-dimensional spectrum that is the world of perfume. In each episode, we take a detailed look … Continue reading Continue reading

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The Candies 2014: The Very Best and Very Worst Perfumes of 2014

Wow, what a whirlwind of a year 2014 was. The perfume industry has, as always, been nothing short of prolific in its output, with new brands popping up all over the place and the same big names releasing perfume upon … Continue reading Continue reading

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