Category Archives: Serge Lutens

Collection Noire

A (bottle-oriented and Serge-less) video for the reorganized and repackaged Collection Noire from Serge Lutens. (There is some discussion in the review for Dent de Lait, if you missed it.)
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Serge Lutens Dent de Lait ~ perfume review

Serge Lutens Dent de Lait

Changes are afoot at French niche house Serge Lutens, in case you didn’t get the memo. What was once the “export line”, that is, the scents you could buy in the rectangular 50 ml bottles, is soon to be “Collection Noire”, in 100 ml for €180.1 Some of the fragrances from the export line have been shuffled into what was once the “exclusive line”, that is, the bell jars. The Vapo series, in which “exclusive” fragrances were made widely available in 30 ml travel sizes, is possibly gone. Maybe some scents have been discontinued altogether, maybe they haven’t, I’ve heard both cases stated with authority.2 Reports of the brand’s fragrances being significantly reformulated have been around for years now, and that is true of so many brands that perhaps the time has come when you should never replace a bottle of anything without smelling a new tester first.

None of this really matters much to me. I haven’t adored a new Serge Lutens scent in years,3 and I have so much perfume that I’ll possibly never need to replace any of my old Lutens favorites…

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Abandoned sections of the dental arch

A spot for Serge Lutens Dent de Lait, including lots of missing teeth and an unexpected brief showing by Lego Batman.
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Serge Lutens Dent de Lait & Bourreau des Fleurs ~ new fragrances

Serge Lutens Dent de Lait

French niche house Serge Lutens is repackaging and streamlining its fragrance offerings, and introducing two new scents. Dent de Lait (milk tooth) joins the Collection Noire, which will merge the prior Collection Noire and Collection Beige fragrances, and be offered in 100 ml instead of 50 ml. Bourreau des Fleurs (executioner of flowers) joins the luxury Section d’Or series…

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Three Ultimate Iris Perfumes

Once, as I was telling Maurice Roucel how much I loved his Iris Silver Mist, a perfume he created for Serge Lutens, he laughed and explained that Lutens kept asking again and again for more iris, so he ended up using all the iris aromatics in the catalogue of his company and essentially “mixing them together.” […]

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Fume Chat Episode 08: The Serge Lutens Battle of the Bottles

We’re back with another Battle of the Bottles and this time we’re battling one of the greats: Serge Lutens. Uncle Serge, as he is often affectionally referred to, is a pioneer of the niche fragrance industry and boasts a range … Continue reading Continue reading

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5 perfumes: wood pudding

Peterman Round Bowls, wood

As a way of classifying perfumes, fragrance families are useful, and most of them have enough of an “official” status that we understand what they imply. Fragrance families don’t tell the whole story, but they help us understand a bit better what a perfume might smell like, or more to the point around here probably, they help us to understand if we can be bothered to try something at all. If I tell you a perfume with berries, jasmine and patchouli is a fruity floral, which of course it could be, you might imagine a certain kind of smell, quite different than if I told you it was an oriental, or a chypre, or a green floral, or an aldehydic floral. What you imagine, of course, could be quite wrong, but it never hurts to know how Michael Edwards classified something after he smelled it.1

Many perfumistas, of course, have their own categories or subcategories, like creamsicle or skank or booze, or we might classify by specific notes we’re interested in, from mimosa to ylang ylang. Wood pudding™ is one of my own favorite personal / unofficial categories, especially in deep winter. A decent wood pudding fragrance is spicy and creamy, and comforting, but the relatively heavy woods temper the sweetness enough to keep the fragrance from falling into a more general gourmand or foody category. Here are 5 of my favorites, and do add your own in the comments!

Givenchy Organza Indecence very nearly defines the category…

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Top 10 Winter Fragrances 2017

I tried not to get too Grinch-y over the holidays, and I did pretty well, considering the world events of late 2016 plus the fact that I was suffering occasional bouts of Instagram ennui. So many exotic vacations, so many artful table settings, so many #thankful embraces scrolling past my eyes; you may know what I mean.

I’m happy with my own lot in life, truly, but sometimes I worry — not on my own behalf, but on yours, dear readers. My taste in perfume may be glamorous, but my life is pretty quiet. I hate to let you down. Still, rather than fabricate some picture-perfect fantasy life, I’ll just come clean and share my own mundane activities, with the fragrances that I wear to dress them up a bit.

Just a regular day at the office: Byredo Rose Noir. This was my most-worn fragrance of 2016, because it’s a “no brainer” for me: a blend of citrus, rose and modern patchouli that doesn’t come on too strong. It’s my olfactory equivalent of my many basic black dresses…

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A memory of dust that smells of gingerbread

The videos for Serge Lutens Baptême du feu, and below the jump, Veilleur de Nuit.

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5 perfumes: vetiver fragrances for winter

Striped Vetiver Fiber Table Linen Collection

It’s January, and this morning we had our first snow-related school delay — it must be time for the winter vetiver list (I’ve already covered summer and fall). For all of these lists, the line between the seasons is perhaps a bit arbitrary and/or personal, but in general, today’s selections are heavier variations on the theme. If you are a woman who sometimes finds vetiver too masculine to wear, you might want to stick with the summer recommendations, or come back for the spring list. And as always, do add your own picks in the comments!

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vétiver: Arguably the granddaddy of them all; when I reviewed it, I called it “the wild beast of vetiver fragrances”…

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